We spent most of the day gearing up for our last fling to Tuktoyaktuk, updating the blog as it had been hard to do it in other communities along the way, shopping for a bit more food, although we really didn’t need any more. Alaine and Leonie shopped for more clothes as the weather was becoming colder and colder every day. I tried to hurry them, so we could get going as we were losing precious time. And when I said to them that they shouldn’t need any more clothes with all the spare fat they had around their bodies, it somehow didn’t go down that well. I just couldn’t understand why they got a little shirty with my innocent comments.......I always try to tell the truth even if it is a bit exaggerated!!!
Around 5.00pm Alaine and I loaded our canoe once again. Leonie was still shopping or maybe doing a few minutes on the fitness treadmill after my comments. (by the way, Leonie lost 10 kgs in weight on the trip). Tony came to wave us off, he had decided earlier in the trip that he wanted to finish at Inuvik.
Alaine loading up the canoe in her new 'warm' jacketWithout Tony it meant that either Leonie or I had to paddle a canoe alone. Alaine was concerned about the ocean leg and preferred that I stayed in our canoe because of my experience and skills but she was also worried about Leonie paddling the canoe solo. Leonie however had no problem with going it alone, in fact she seemed to be excited about it.
Once Leonie's canoe was loaded she went for a test paddle, the nose of the canoe was lifting way out of the water so the weight had to be rearranged to make the bow of the canoe heavier to stop it from lifting. Once this was done, we set off at around 5.00pm. Just over a kilometre downstream we passed between barges at the Government wharf. Workmen was busy, they looked on as we passed. They must have wondered why we were paddling so late in the afternoon against strong winds, light rain and a sky that looked as if it was going to explode. Leonie’s canoe was being lifted and thrown about by the wind waves.
To help keep her bow from blowing around I put a tow line on the front of her boat. It worked well. We paddled for three and half hours and covered 25 kms we found a campsite which allowed us to get out on fairly firm mud. The wind dropped at 10.30pm. Owl hooting.
Setting up camp on the firm mud
Friday 8th August Morning
It's hard to believe that we are already here at Inuvik. We arrived at approximately 7.15 p.m. on Thursday 7th (after a two days of hard paddling). We pulled into the harbor and were astounded to find that two other paddlers had arrived the same day.....a Japanese guy- he'd arrived three hours before us (we'd had word that he was on the river somewhere though never caught sight of him) and a French guy from Paris, (Alain is his name), who had arrived just one hour before us (we never knew he was on the river and we never caught sight of him and he got here only one hour before us.......just shows how big the river is).
Alaine has given me a name (actually several names!!) but the one I'm referring to on this occassion is 'Dead Eye Dick'........she reckons that I can spot anything kms away but obviously I didn't spot the paddler one hour in front.
We've been amazingly lucky with the paddling conditions (blue skies, calm winds, NO mozzies, NO flies, NO bears (but sure could see where they've been.........and I thought I had big feet). But since crossing the Arctic Circle about five days ago the weather and wind began to change and the temperatures began to drop.
Tony is leaving us at Inuvik and three of us are paddling onto to Tuktoyaktuk. This I've just brought to Alaine's attention, is actually going to be he hardest part of the paddle. Why.....there's no current once we reach the tidal areas, the cold, the cloud cover, the rain and the fact that we have to paddle in the ocean for 40kms and the locals are still warning us about the bears.
Thursday 7th August
The wolves were howling throughout the night, it was an amazing musical. The sense of truly being in the wilderness was magical.
The current had slowed considerably and although we only had 55 kms to reach Inuvik, it would take us all day. Within a few minutes of paddling we saw a black wolf sitting under a tree. It didn’t move until we got close, then it stood up and watched us. I’m sure it was wondering who the hell we were. We eventually moved off before it did. Some time later we saw another black wolf trotting along the shore on the other side of the river.
The day was cold and the wind made it even colder. When we stopped for lunch we nearly froze. Now that we were getting closer to Inuvik there were several cabins along the way, though very few were inhabited.
We arrived in Inuvik on a chilly evening and stopped at the town wharf. Another paddler, a French guy had arrived an hour before us. He had taken twice as long to get there. Also a Japanese paddler had arrived earlier that day. It seemed that every paddler on the river were now in Inuvik.We unloaded our more expensive gear and walked into town in our canoeing clothes (what a sight) and found a hotel. We showered (such blissful luxury) and went out for a very enjoyable meal.
Wednesday 6th August
It was raining quite heavily when we woke and very bleak outside. The rain delayed us, but when we did decide to go we wasted no time. The sky was chocked with almost black, heavy clouds.
When we moved around Separation Point and into the Mackenzie River delta where the river split into several channels, the river became rougher. It was also wet, especially for Alaine who was at the front of the canoe taking all the splash from the waves. It was also a hard slog.
After 20kms we entered the East Channel, which broke off from the main river. We were quite happy as it meant that we would be out of the wind and away from the big waves, but on the downside we had a slower current.
With the delta came muddy shoreline, so it was hard to land anywhere without getting mud up to the knees.
It was raining quite heavily when we woke and very bleak outside. The rain delayed us, but when we did decide to go we wasted no time. The sky was chocked with almost black, heavy clouds.
When we moved around Separation Point and into the Mackenzie River delta where the river split into several channels, the river became rougher. It was also wet, especially for Alaine who was at the front of the canoe taking all the splash from the waves. It was also a hard slog.
After 20kms we entered the East Channel, which broke off from the main river. We were quite happy as it meant that we would be out of the wind and away from the big waves, but on the downside we had a slower current.
With the delta came muddy shoreline, so it was hard to land anywhere without getting mud up to the knees.
Tuesday 5th August
The river was calm, the weather was cold and I mean…..cold and the sky was dark and cloudy. We had our first break at the beginning of the Lower Ramparts, a stretch of cliffs just before Tsiigehtchic (Arctic Red River). Although impressive they were not as good as the Upper Ramparts that we had passed earlier. The cloudy weather didn’t enhance them either.
Rounding the cliff lined bend we saw life, a ferry was crossing the river a km or two away. Soon the church at Tsiigehtchic on the hill appeared and all the other houses of the community. We pulled ashore beside some local boats. Although the Dempster Highway is only 200 metres away it doesn’t reach the small town. The Arctic Red River is in the way. The ferry carries cars from the highway to the town and also across the Mackenzie River for those driving to Inuvik.
We stopped and walked into the community. There wasn’t a lot to see but the shop was open. The local children were chatty and warned us of wet weather ahead.
We bought more tortillas, which we have enjoyed with cheese spread and jam, but again they were mouldy. The tiny communities were not good for fresh foods. We had lunch next to the canoe with a local dog looking on. It was icy cold.
The sun shone a little when we left, and the Ramparts looked much more spectacular. The ferry was busy taking cars and trucks across the river.
Ahead the straight river faded into a haze. It soon became rough so we kept closer to shore. The Richardson Mountains were over to our left but they kept disappearing from view as the rain haze came and went.
We stopped early at 5.15pm just before Point Separation. The sun had come out and the camping site was good. The day’s temperature had changed from being icy cold to being quite warm. We were in for a good last night’s camp on the main river. Later we were blessed with the view of the Richardson Mountains showing its splendour and rugged appearance.
Monday 4th August
It was cold and although the wind was calm when we started it soon started to strengthen. At lunchtime two power boats with First Nation Rangers on board stopped to have a talk. They were going up river to meet other Rangers from upstream communities and were guiding them back to Inuvik. The First Nation people were wonderful people. Never shy to talk to us, always warm, happy and friendly.
They told us it was windy around the next corner and the river will be rough. It was and we struggled, criss crossed the river, keeping to the deeper water and in the main current. A fish camp nearby had fish drying under a shelter.
It had been a hard day, we had paddled for hours and by days end we had only paddled 68kms. The wind calmed by 11.00pm.
It was cold and although the wind was calm when we started it soon started to strengthen. At lunchtime two power boats with First Nation Rangers on board stopped to have a talk. They were going up river to meet other Rangers from upstream communities and were guiding them back to Inuvik. The First Nation people were wonderful people. Never shy to talk to us, always warm, happy and friendly.
They told us it was windy around the next corner and the river will be rough. It was and we struggled, criss crossed the river, keeping to the deeper water and in the main current. A fish camp nearby had fish drying under a shelter.
It had been a hard day, we had paddled for hours and by days end we had only paddled 68kms. The wind calmed by 11.00pm.
Sunday 3rd August
Calm and not too cold. Had to skirt around a sandbar and island. I spotted two moose on the end of the island. We crept up to them and we were watching for several minutes before the young one noticed us. Mum still didn’t know we were there and we paddled off before she ever did.
A barge (which we had seen at Fort of Good Hope) caught up to us at a corner, and Tony and Leonie tried to keep up with it but had no chance. We would see it three more times before we get to the end.
The rain moved in and the river turned rough. We had to get to the shore to be safe. Here we stopped and put more clothes on. We took off again in the shelter of the shore but had to stop when extremely heavy rain came in just before we had to cross an exposed area.
We pulled over and erected tents to shelter until the storm had passed. It was very cold and wet. We were back paddling within 90 minutes, crossing the river in slightly calmer but still rough conditions.
We stopped at a river entrance next to a cabin and a spot called the Trading Post to gather up fresh water, it tasted good.
Kilometres later the sky was dark and bleak, the water was rough and the temperature was again icy cold. We were late camping, 8.30pm and the bleak weather didn’t help us to settle in. Huge bear tracks were embedded in the dirt all around the camp and even bigger ones a hundred metres away in the mud.
Calm and not too cold. Had to skirt around a sandbar and island. I spotted two moose on the end of the island. We crept up to them and we were watching for several minutes before the young one noticed us. Mum still didn’t know we were there and we paddled off before she ever did.
A barge (which we had seen at Fort of Good Hope) caught up to us at a corner, and Tony and Leonie tried to keep up with it but had no chance. We would see it three more times before we get to the end.
The rain moved in and the river turned rough. We had to get to the shore to be safe. Here we stopped and put more clothes on. We took off again in the shelter of the shore but had to stop when extremely heavy rain came in just before we had to cross an exposed area.
We pulled over and erected tents to shelter until the storm had passed. It was very cold and wet. We were back paddling within 90 minutes, crossing the river in slightly calmer but still rough conditions.
We stopped at a river entrance next to a cabin and a spot called the Trading Post to gather up fresh water, it tasted good.Kilometres later the sky was dark and bleak, the water was rough and the temperature was again icy cold. We were late camping, 8.30pm and the bleak weather didn’t help us to settle in. Huge bear tracks were embedded in the dirt all around the camp and even bigger ones a hundred metres away in the mud.
A big barge came powering up river, it was probably the biggest we had seen so far and not far behind it was the tourist boat the Noweta, which carried about 16 passengers. Only a couple braved it outside in the cold to wave to us.
1.00am another late night before I hit the sack.
Saturday 2nd August
The strong wind made steering the canoe difficult. After an hours paddle we noticed the tents and canoes of the family on a huge sandbar. All but one of the family were sleeping. As the river narrowed the current became quicker.
We stopped for lunch just before the location of Little Chicago and sat on a log looking at a beautiful view. The weather had changed amazingly, it was now sunny and warm. We carried on with the help of a swift current. We stopped and drifted, laid back, basked in the sun and relaxed for 15 minutes. Tony jumped into the water and had a quick swim, a swim in Arctic waters. We had a great view of the range.
Found a good campsite. A water bird in the river was making one hell of a loud and strange call. Leonie couldn’t believe it was a bird, it must be an animal, she said.
The wind calmed. As I was taking a photo of the midnight sunset, the family paddled by. They were all chatting. Couldn’t believe it, they must have paddled 60 odd kilometres and still looked so relaxed.
The strong wind made steering the canoe difficult. After an hours paddle we noticed the tents and canoes of the family on a huge sandbar. All but one of the family were sleeping. As the river narrowed the current became quicker.
We stopped for lunch just before the location of Little Chicago and sat on a log looking at a beautiful view. The weather had changed amazingly, it was now sunny and warm. We carried on with the help of a swift current. We stopped and drifted, laid back, basked in the sun and relaxed for 15 minutes. Tony jumped into the water and had a quick swim, a swim in Arctic waters. We had a great view of the range.
Found a good campsite. A water bird in the river was making one hell of a loud and strange call. Leonie couldn’t believe it was a bird, it must be an animal, she said.
The wind calmed. As I was taking a photo of the midnight sunset, the family paddled by. They were all chatting. Couldn’t believe it, they must have paddled 60 odd kilometres and still looked so relaxed.
Friday 1st August
There was a storm in the night. It was a chilly morning and the sand cranes
were still calling.
By mid morning the wind had increased and the chill had changed to cold. The wind increased further and the river chopped up to an uncomfortable stage. We stopped for lunch near a creek just after Askew Island and sat on a low lying bed of dried rocks. It was exposed and chilly but there was no better place to stop.
Further along on the right side of the river we came across a family with their dog resting on shore and getting away from the high wind. They too were canoeists and were from Norman Wells and on their way to Inuvik. We knew they were on the river somewhere as Cheryl whom was a great help to us at the council offices of Normal Wells, had said that her good friends Michelle, Wes and their three children and dog were paddling to Inuvik.
There was a storm in the night. It was a chilly morning and the sand cranes
were still calling.
By mid morning the wind had increased and the chill had changed to cold. The wind increased further and the river chopped up to an uncomfortable stage. We stopped for lunch near a creek just after Askew Island and sat on a low lying bed of dried rocks. It was exposed and chilly but there was no better place to stop.
Further along on the right side of the river we came across a family with their dog resting on shore and getting away from the high wind. They too were canoeists and were from Norman Wells and on their way to Inuvik. We knew they were on the river somewhere as Cheryl whom was a great help to us at the council offices of Normal Wells, had said that her good friends Michelle, Wes and their three children and dog were paddling to Inuvik.
Michelle was chatty but Wes avoided talking. He was either shy or he just didn’t like people invading his privacy. Their little girl was playing with toys. The other two children were First Nation and the eldest boy who looked about 13 was paddling a collapsible kayak by himself. The little one just had on a T shirt and no shoes and we shivered just looking at her, they must build these North West Territories people to be hardy.
We left them and slogged on against the strong wind and rough water. We later found a good campsite at a place called the Grand View, and it truly was.
There were very large, very fresh bear tracks imbedded in the mud and those prints went right down to the rivers edge!!
We settled in, and for appetisers we had wine, oysters, dip and crackers and sat looking across the river taking in all its beauty. Just as we finished I saw a black object floating quite quickly across the river. First thoughts were that it was a log but it was moving too fast. With the aid of binoculars I noticed it was a bear out for a big swim. It swam right across the very wide river and when it was within thirty metres from the opposite side it just drifted. We watched for over 20 minutes. Eventually it climbed up the shoreline and fled into the forest.
In the meantime a barge motored upstream towards us. There were two Moose or Caribou on the other side of the river but when the barge passed they were gone.
About 8.30pm the family casually paddled towards us. Shouted hello and continued on their way. The young boy was paddling by himself, Michelle had her daughter with her and she was chatting away and playing with her toys. Wes had the younger son with him. They were only a spot in the distance after 30 minutes.
