There was mist on the river at 6.15am and it hung around for an hour. It was beautiful. The sky was near cloudless, surely a sign of a good day? By 9.10am we were heading over to the Rampart Cliffs. They looked spectacular from a distance.
We paddled across towards the gap in the cliffs and within 2kms of them rocky islands and shallows rock bars and ledges were creating rapids. By manoeuvring mainly towards the right we managed to skirt them.
We were soon in the narrow gorge with cliff walls staring vertically each side of us. The left cliffs were illuminated by the morning sun. They were spectacular. An eagle glided above the cliffs.
We took photos for the next hour until the gorge widened and we were no longer hemmed in by the stunning vertical barrier. Then, before us on a hill in the distance we could see the white church of Fort of Good Hope. It wasn’t long before we pulled up at the muddy boat ramp, got changed and walked into town to do some shopping.
With the long summer holidays for students still running, several of them were in the store or mingling outside. In a small village like this there wasn’t a lot for them to do, however satellite television did manage to keep them in touch with fashion and habits and styles of the youth in big cities.
We had lunch on a bench near the church which we were told had beautiful paintings inside and a must to see. Unfortunately it was locked and the priest wasn’t around so we missed out.
A First Nation man generously gave Tony a fresh fish. We left the village heading towards the Arctic Circle in brilliant sunshine and with the river shimmering and shining. We were ready and waiting to cross the circle. It was my second time to canoe across the Arctic Circle so it was a little bit special.
There was a fish camp (locals cabins and tents) at the mouth of the Loon River which came out just below the Arctic Circle. An island nearby had one of the best sand bars that we had seen on the trip. It got 10 out of 10 on the score card but we didn’t stop to camp on it. Some time later, above the Arctic Circle we found another sand bar, where we camped and I made a fire and cooked the fish. It was yummy.
A few Sand Cranes were on the sand bar and came within a hundred metres of us. Their call was amazing. We could hear them all night on the sandbar and flying overhead. We were told that we would hear them but be lucky to see them……..we were lucky.
The wind started to blow at 11.00pm and rain started to develop.
Wednesday 30th July
The morning was a little hazy but otherwise it was the beginning of a beautiful day. The scenery around us was grand, and not dissimilar to parts of the Kimberley, though it lacked the rich ochre colour of the Kimberley. The Bat Hills were over to our right and other hills in the distance on the left, the views were simply stunning.
At the end of Dummit Island, just after two channels converged there were some manageable rapids over to the right side of the river. Tony and Leonie headed across into them to have some fun. We could hear Leonie shouting with excitement.
A few kilometres further, just beyond Hardie Island, Alaine noticed a golden cloud heading our way and just beside it , the start of some ominous looking clouds. It was quite unbelievable as it was a calm, beautiful day yet a sandstorm was whipping up and ominous clouds were forming rapidly. Within minutes the full force of a storm had hit us. The river had turned into one mass of breaking waves and the wind was virtually wrenching our paddles from our grasp. We had to make our way to shore to be safe.
The morning was a little hazy but otherwise it was the beginning of a beautiful day. The scenery around us was grand, and not dissimilar to parts of the Kimberley, though it lacked the rich ochre colour of the Kimberley. The Bat Hills were over to our right and other hills in the distance on the left, the views were simply stunning.
At the end of Dummit Island, just after two channels converged there were some manageable rapids over to the right side of the river. Tony and Leonie headed across into them to have some fun. We could hear Leonie shouting with excitement.
A few kilometres further, just beyond Hardie Island, Alaine noticed a golden cloud heading our way and just beside it , the start of some ominous looking clouds. It was quite unbelievable as it was a calm, beautiful day yet a sandstorm was whipping up and ominous clouds were forming rapidly. Within minutes the full force of a storm had hit us. The river had turned into one mass of breaking waves and the wind was virtually wrenching our paddles from our grasp. We had to make our way to shore to be safe.
Alaine jumped out knee high, right into thick, gluggy mud and boy, was she was far from cheerful!! We moved on keeping close to shore after everyone had put on more clothes. Alaine wasn’t happy that we were paddling on into the wind though we were in the shelter of the shore and out of the even stronger winds out where we would normally be paddling.
Paddling was quite tough and although Alaine’s wrist was hurting, she was paddling extremely hard, Tony and Leonie couldn’t keep up.
In the meantime the sand was still being blown around as though it was a storm in a dessert, and the river was filled with whitecaps and huge ocean type waves.
After lunch the wind calmed a little so the river was less suicidal and we managed to make some headway. I spotted a bear from afar and when we neared, it came out of the bushes looked at us and ran into the forest.
We struggled on to an island a few kilometres from the stunning Ramparts
Cliffs. We arrived just as a storm started to batter the island and as we were erecting our tents. A bigger storm was lashing the Rampart gorge.
Tuesday 29th July
The sand cranes were still calling in the morning, it was a lovely sound to waken up to. By noon we had reached the Cargajou Ridge and the steep rock cliffs. They were amazing. We floated with our legs up and basking in the hot sun.
We had lunch with the steep cliffs as a backdrop, they were stunning. Further along the cliffs dropped straight into the water. The different textured rock face and formations were incredible. We drifted and took photos and tried to capture the amazing beauty around us and burn it into our memories.
I spotted a bear from several hundred metres and paddled towards it. We were quiet so it didn’t realise we were there. The bear walked slowly along the shoreline. We watched it for some time before it spotted us. It walked closer towards us, looked at us before rearing up onto two legs and grunted. The bear then turned and pushed through the undergrowth and out of sight. It returned to shore as we paddled further along. Soon after we drifted past the bear we caught sight of a large beaver sunning itself on a rock.
What a day it was turning out to be!! 
Further along next to Axel Island, a police runabout stopped. The three policemen from Norman Wells were checking out the rapids downstream. Apparently they come down every so often to check out the power boats along the way and make sure no one was in trouble along the river.
Monday 28th July
We walked into town to do last minute shopping. We heard some news of a small boat having been capsized near Tuktoyatuk (where we were headed to) by a big wave and sadly four people had drowned, only a teenage boy survived.
We had brunch at a diner before leaving. I had an Oilman’s omelet. Like all the meals we had in Norman Wells, the quality was excellent.
We were packed and ready to leave by 12.45pm. There were several man made islands with oil wells working away and an oil rig which at that time was out of action and losing thousands of dollars every day. Norman Wells and surrounds had been quite an education.
The day was cloudy and hazy so it ruined our view of the Mackenzie Ranges. By late afternoon the haze had gone and we got good views of the Norman Range.
We camped next to a stream and had steak, potatoes and corn cooked over the campfire. The beautiful sound of the sand cranes were with us all night. Yet another magnificent midnight sunset.
Had 48km to get to Norman Wells. The river was calm and temperature hot. A smoke haze was still hanging around.
We arrived at the oil and gas mining town at 2.30pm and of course, being Sunday, only the supermarket was open. Checked out museum. It had so much stuff in it, it was amazing for a small town. Out from our camp was one oil rig and several man made islands with oil pumps. There are no roads into Norman Wells, until they make winter roads when everything freezes over.
We had our evening meal at the Mackenzie Hotel. I was surprised at the quality. We all had great meals and of course a couple of beers, blueberry tart and ice cream. I also had some of my leftover fish which was as delicious as the night before.
Saturday 26th July
32kms paddle to Fort Norman. A bigger community than we expected. It was Saturday, so only the store was open. It had a great little log church. Floor buckled, but still looked as if it was used. Treated ourselves to ice cream and a drink.
We topped up our water supplies from the Great Bear River. Thewater comes straight out of the Great Bear Lake, one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world. Pure, cold, fresh water! You can't get any better than that.
A few kms further we stopped at a spot where the smoke was coming out of the ground due to burning coals. We walked close, but the fumes were overpowering. The stench of the fumes gave out a pungent odour.
It was a beautiful afternoon. We found a great camping spot and I managed to become the hunter again. I caught a huge fish the locals call a Coney. It was so big it was hard to lift. Too much for a meal for four so we had left-overs the next day.
Another great sunset.
Friday 25th July
Cool Morning, cloudy, with sunny patches. The current was swift. We were paddling between 11 - 16kms in an hour. Calm conditions, small mountain ranges a distance off and landslides of the shoreline made the day special.
Found a great campsite on a Seagull Island. Again, no mosquitoes. Since starting the Mackenzie leg of the journey, all but 2 campsites have been free of mosquitoes.
Thursday 24th July
Windy again!! Tried my hand at fishing the Backwater River. although it was clear, Tony and I had no luck. Decided to change roles and be the gatherer rather than the hunter. The water was near black.
We met the police boat returning from Fort Simpson. The current was fast. We were paddling at 10 - 14kms per hour. Loved it!!
Camped at Redstone River, but the water was too milky to catch fish.
Wednesday 23rd July
It was still quite story and it began to rain, although not for too long. It was also cold at times.
We left the mountain ranges behind and had a hard paddle along a straight part of the river.
We had another good camp next to a stream.
Tuesday 22nd July
We met another barge fighting it's way up-stream against the currents. A police boat going downstream to to Norman Wells stopped to check us out. Other than that we only see the odd powerboat.
The river has now turned milky, due to some of the rivers carrying glaciers silt from the mountains. Fishing has deteriorated, the fish can't seem to see my lure. I tried fishing at a clear spot between the Mountains River, but I still had no luck.
Water current was good. The day was hot and calm. Arrived at the village of Wrigley late afteroon. We met 10 students and 2 leaders on a 44 day trip from Fort Providence. They were beaming and excited amd loved the river and experiences so far. It was great to see young people so excited and positive. They are going to learn so much about the country and themselves. They were on a YMCA trip from Calgary.
We moved on and camped on a rock island. It was perfect until a storm came through and the sand patches were whipped up by the wind.
Monday 28th July
We walked into town to do last minute shopping. We heard some news of a small boat having been capsized near Tuktoyatuk (where we were headed to) by a big wave and sadly four people had drowned, only a teenage boy survived.
We had brunch at a diner before leaving. I had an Oilman’s omelet. Like all the meals we had in Norman Wells, the quality was excellent.
We were packed and ready to leave by 12.45pm. There were several man made islands with oil wells working away and an oil rig which at that time was out of action and losing thousands of dollars every day. Norman Wells and surrounds had been quite an education.
The day was cloudy and hazy so it ruined our view of the Mackenzie Ranges. By late afternoon the haze had gone and we got good views of the Norman Range.
We camped next to a stream and had steak, potatoes and corn cooked over the campfire. The beautiful sound of the sand cranes were with us all night. Yet another magnificent midnight sunset.
Had 48km to get to Norman Wells. The river was calm and temperature hot. A smoke haze was still hanging around.
We arrived at the oil and gas mining town at 2.30pm and of course, being Sunday, only the supermarket was open. Checked out museum. It had so much stuff in it, it was amazing for a small town. Out from our camp was one oil rig and several man made islands with oil pumps. There are no roads into Norman Wells, until they make winter roads when everything freezes over.
We had our evening meal at the Mackenzie Hotel. I was surprised at the quality. We all had great meals and of course a couple of beers, blueberry tart and ice cream. I also had some of my leftover fish which was as delicious as the night before.
Saturday 26th July
32kms paddle to Fort Norman. A bigger community than we expected. It was Saturday, so only the store was open. It had a great little log church. Floor buckled, but still looked as if it was used. Treated ourselves to ice cream and a drink.
We topped up our water supplies from the Great Bear River. Thewater comes straight out of the Great Bear Lake, one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world. Pure, cold, fresh water! You can't get any better than that.
A few kms further we stopped at a spot where the smoke was coming out of the ground due to burning coals. We walked close, but the fumes were overpowering. The stench of the fumes gave out a pungent odour.
It was a beautiful afternoon. We found a great camping spot and I managed to become the hunter again. I caught a huge fish the locals call a Coney. It was so big it was hard to lift. Too much for a meal for four so we had left-overs the next day.
Another great sunset.
Friday 25th July
Cool Morning, cloudy, with sunny patches. The current was swift. We were paddling between 11 - 16kms in an hour. Calm conditions, small mountain ranges a distance off and landslides of the shoreline made the day special.
Found a great campsite on a Seagull Island. Again, no mosquitoes. Since starting the Mackenzie leg of the journey, all but 2 campsites have been free of mosquitoes.
Thursday 24th July
Windy again!! Tried my hand at fishing the Backwater River. although it was clear, Tony and I had no luck. Decided to change roles and be the gatherer rather than the hunter. The water was near black.
We met the police boat returning from Fort Simpson. The current was fast. We were paddling at 10 - 14kms per hour. Loved it!!
Camped at Redstone River, but the water was too milky to catch fish.
Wednesday 23rd July
It was still quite story and it began to rain, although not for too long. It was also cold at times.
We left the mountain ranges behind and had a hard paddle along a straight part of the river.
We had another good camp next to a stream.
Tuesday 22nd July
We met another barge fighting it's way up-stream against the currents. A police boat going downstream to to Norman Wells stopped to check us out. Other than that we only see the odd powerboat.
The river has now turned milky, due to some of the rivers carrying glaciers silt from the mountains. Fishing has deteriorated, the fish can't seem to see my lure. I tried fishing at a clear spot between the Mountains River, but I still had no luck.
Water current was good. The day was hot and calm. Arrived at the village of Wrigley late afteroon. We met 10 students and 2 leaders on a 44 day trip from Fort Providence. They were beaming and excited amd loved the river and experiences so far. It was great to see young people so excited and positive. They are going to learn so much about the country and themselves. They were on a YMCA trip from Calgary.
We moved on and camped on a rock island. It was perfect until a storm came through and the sand patches were whipped up by the wind.
