Tuesday 12th August 2008

It's been a cruel finish to what has been an amazing trip! After paddling nearly 4,000kms (2,000kms for Alaine and Leonie), the weather dealt the final blow. Being only 70kms from the ocean, a one and a half days paddle, we checked the weather forecast for the days that we would be crossing the ocean. The report wasn't good, it was going to be extremely windy for the days of the crossing. When we left Inuvik two days earlier, the weather report was for near perfect conditions for the ocean crossing part of the trip, despite the weather over the previous few days being extremely cold and wet.

With this new weather information I had to make the toughest decision that I've had to make in years, to keep paddling into weather that we knew we couldn't paddle in or retreat back to Inuvik against the current with the knowledge that we hadn't got to our preferred finishing point of Tuktoyaktuk. With the past week's weather of being very cold and wet and two days of continuous rain and maximum temperatures of 5C, we were in a quandary as to what to do. Since crossing the Arctic Circle, the weather has been very cool except a couple of brief encounters with the sun.

With the wind coming from the North, it meant that we were always ploughing into it. So with the continuous rain, the intense cold weather and the wind waves that splashed over the bow of the canoe making it an extra cold/wet trip for Alaine. Despite her wearing several layers of clothing she was chilled more than Leonie and I. With Tony leaving us a Inuvik, it meant that Leonie was paddling her canoe by herself and in moderate wind conditions, we needed to tow her to keep the nose of the canoe in line. So this made it more imperative that we had calm conditions on the ocean to ensure that our crossing was safe. Leonie did an amazing job in paddling the canoe herself and should feel very proud of her determination and abilities.

As we stood in the rain on a beach 70kms from the ocean, the decision to turn back would affect us for a long time to come. I have completed four other very long rivers to the end and Alaine and Leonie were looking forward to completing the entire MacKenzie River, although we had paddled thousands of kms, we had a hollow feeling inside it wasn't about what we had achieved up until then. Our minds and hearts were focused on that last little bit and when we decided for safety sake to retreat, sadly we had forgotten what we had actually achieved.

August 2008

Friday 8th August Getting ready to paddle to Tuktoyaktuk

We spent most of the day gearing up for our last fling to Tuktoyaktuk, updating the blog as it had been hard to do it in other communities along the way, shopping for a bit more food, although we really didn’t need any more. Alaine and Leonie shopped for more clothes as the weather was becoming colder and colder every day. I tried to hurry them, so we could get going as we were losing precious time. And when I said to them that they shouldn’t need any more clothes with all the spare fat they had around their bodies, it somehow didn’t go down that well. I just couldn’t understand why they got a little shirty with my innocent comments.......I always try to tell the truth even if it is a bit exaggerated!!!

Around 5.00pm Alaine and I loaded our canoe once again. Leonie was still shopping or maybe doing a few minutes on the fitness treadmill after my comments. (by the way, Leonie lost 10 kgs in weight on the trip). Tony came to wave us off, he had decided earlier in the trip that he wanted to finish at Inuvik.

Alaine loading up the canoe in her new 'warm' jacket

Without Tony it meant that either Leonie or I had to paddle a canoe alone. Alaine was concerned about the ocean leg and preferred that I stayed in our canoe because of my experience and skills but she was also worried about Leonie paddling the canoe solo. Leonie however had no problem with going it alone, in fact she seemed to be excited about it.

Once Leonie's canoe was loaded she went for a test paddle, the nose of the canoe was lifting way out of the water so the weight had to be rearranged to make the bow of the canoe heavier to stop it from lifting. Once this was done, we set off at around 5.00pm. Just over a kilometre downstream we passed between barges at the Government wharf. Workmen was busy, they looked on as we passed. They must have wondered why we were paddling so late in the afternoon against strong winds, light rain and a sky that looked as if it was going to explode. Leonie’s canoe was being lifted and thrown about by the wind waves.

To help keep her bow from blowing around I put a tow line on the front of her boat. It worked well. We paddled for three and half hours and covered 25 kms we found a campsite which allowed us to get out on fairly firm mud. The wind dropped at 10.30pm. Owl hooting.

Setting up camp on the firm mud

Friday 8th August Morning

It's hard to believe that we are already here at Inuvik. We arrived at approximately 7.15 p.m. on Thursday 7th (after a two days of hard paddling). We pulled into the harbor and were astounded to find that two other paddlers had arrived the same day.....a Japanese guy- he'd arrived three hours before us (we'd had word that he was on the river somewhere though never caught sight of him) and a French guy from Paris, (Alain is his name), who had arrived just one hour before us (we never knew he was on the river and we never caught sight of him and he got here only one hour before us.......just shows how big the river is).

Alaine has given me a name (actually several names!!) but the one I'm referring to on this occassion is 'Dead Eye Dick'........she reckons that I can spot anything kms away but obviously I didn't spot the paddler one hour in front.

We've been amazingly lucky with the paddling conditions (blue skies, calm winds, NO mozzies, NO flies, NO bears (but sure could see where they've been.........and I thought I had big feet). But since crossing the Arctic Circle about five days ago the weather and wind began to change and the temperatures began to drop.

Tony is leaving us at Inuvik and three of us are paddling onto to Tuktoyaktuk. This I've just brought to Alaine's attention, is actually going to be he hardest part of the paddle. Why.....there's no current once we reach the tidal areas, the cold, the cloud cover, the rain and the fact that we have to paddle in the ocean for 40kms and the locals are still warning us about the bears.

Thursday 7th August

The wolves were howling throughout the night, it was an amazing musical. The sense of truly being in the wilderness was magical.

The current had slowed considerably and although we only had 55 kms to reach Inuvik, it would take us all day. Within a few minutes of paddling we saw a black wolf sitting under a tree. It didn’t move until we got close, then it stood up and watched us. I’m sure it was wondering who the hell we were. We eventually moved off before it did. Some time later we saw another black wolf trotting along the shore on the other side of the river.


The day was cold and the wind made it even colder. When we stopped for lunch we nearly froze. Now that we were getting closer to Inuvik there were several cabins along the way, though very few were inhabited.

We arrived in Inuvik on a chilly evening and stopped at the town wharf. Another paddler, a French guy had arrived an hour before us. He had taken twice as long to get there. Also a Japanese paddler had arrived earlier that day. It seemed that every paddler on the river were now in Inuvik.

We unloaded our more expensive gear and walked into town in our canoeing clothes (what a sight) and found a hotel. We showered (such blissful luxury) and went out for a very enjoyable meal.

Wednesday 6th August

It was raining quite heavily when we woke and very bleak outside. The rain delayed us, but when we did decide to go we wasted no time. The sky was chocked with almost black, heavy clouds.

When we moved around Separation Point and into the Mackenzie River delta where the river split into several channels, the river became rougher. It was also wet, especially for Alaine who was at the front of the canoe taking all the splash from the waves. It was also a hard slog.

After 20kms we entered the East Channel, which broke off from the main river. We were quite happy as it meant that we would be out of the wind and away from the big waves, but on the downside we had a slower current.
With the delta came muddy shoreline, so it was hard to land anywhere without getting mud up to the knees.

Tuesday 5th August

The river was calm, the weather was cold and I mean…..cold and the sky was dark and cloudy. We had our first break at the beginning of the Lower Ramparts, a stretch of cliffs just before Tsiigehtchic (Arctic Red River). Although impressive they were not as good as the Upper Ramparts that we had passed earlier. The cloudy weather didn’t enhance them either.

Rounding the cliff lined bend we saw life, a ferry was crossing the river a km or two away. Soon the church at Tsiigehtchic on the hill appeared and all the other houses of the community. We pulled ashore beside some local boats. Although the Dempster Highway is only 200 metres away it doesn’t reach the small town. The Arctic Red River is in the way. The ferry carries cars from the highway to the town and also across the Mackenzie River for those driving to Inuvik.

We stopped and walked into the community. There wasn’t a lot to see but the shop was open. The local children were chatty and warned us of wet weather ahead.

We bought more tortillas, which we have enjoyed with cheese spread and jam, but again they were mouldy. The tiny communities were not good for fresh foods. We had lunch next to the canoe with a local dog looking on. It was icy cold.

The sun shone a little when we left, and the Ramparts looked much more spectacular. The ferry was busy taking cars and trucks across the river.

Ahead the straight river faded into a haze. It soon became rough so we kept closer to shore. The Richardson Mountains were over to our left but they kept disappearing from view as the rain haze came and went.

We stopped early at 5.15pm just before Point Separation. The sun had come out and the camping site was good. The day’s temperature had changed from being icy cold to being quite warm. We were in for a good last night’s camp on the main river. Later we were blessed with the view of the Richardson Mountains showing its splendour and rugged appearance.

Monday 4th August

It was cold and although the wind was calm when we started it soon started to strengthen. At lunchtime two power boats with First Nation Rangers on board stopped to have a talk. They were going up river to meet other Rangers from upstream communities and were guiding them back to Inuvik. The First Nation people were wonderful people. Never shy to talk to us, always warm, happy and friendly.

They told us it was windy around the next corner and the river will be rough. It was and we struggled, criss crossed the river, keeping to the deeper water and in the main current. A fish camp nearby had fish drying under a shelter.

It had been a hard day, we had paddled for hours and by days end we had only paddled 68kms. The wind calmed by 11.00pm.

Sunday 3rd August

Calm and not too cold. Had to skirt around a sandbar and island. I spotted two moose on the end of the island. We crept up to them and we were watching for several minutes before the young one noticed us. Mum still didn’t know we were there and we paddled off before she ever did.

A barge (which we had seen at Fort of Good Hope) caught up to us at a corner, and Tony and Leonie tried to keep up with it but had no chance. We would see it three more times before we get to the end.

The rain moved in and the river turned rough. We had to get to the shore to be safe. Here we stopped and put more clothes on. We took off again in the shelter of the shore but had to stop when extremely heavy rain came in just before we had to cross an exposed area.

We pulled over and erected tents to shelter until the storm had passed. It was very cold and wet. We were back paddling within 90 minutes, crossing the river in slightly calmer but still rough conditions. We stopped at a river entrance next to a cabin and a spot called the Trading Post to gather up fresh water, it tasted good.

Kilometres later the sky was dark and bleak, the water was rough and the temperature was again icy cold. We were late camping, 8.30pm and the bleak weather didn’t help us to settle in. Huge bear tracks were embedded in the dirt all around the camp and even bigger ones a hundred metres away in the mud.

A big barge came powering up river, it was probably the biggest we had seen so far and not far behind it was the tourist boat the Noweta, which carried about 16 passengers. Only a couple braved it outside in the cold to wave to us.

1.00am another late night before I hit the sack.

Saturday 2nd August

The strong wind made steering the canoe difficult. After an hours paddle we noticed the tents and canoes of the family on a huge sandbar. All but one of the family were sleeping. As the river narrowed the current became quicker.

We stopped for lunch just before the location of Little Chicago and sat on a log looking at a beautiful view. The weather had changed amazingly, it was now sunny and warm. We carried on with the help of a swift current. We stopped and drifted, laid back, basked in the sun and relaxed for 15 minutes. Tony jumped into the water and had a quick swim, a swim in Arctic waters. We had a great view of the range.

Found a good campsite. A water bird in the river was making one hell of a loud and strange call. Leonie couldn’t believe it was a bird, it must be an animal, she said.

The wind calmed. As I was taking a photo of the midnight sunset, the family paddled by. They were all chatting. Couldn’t believe it, they must have paddled 60 odd kilometres and still looked so relaxed.

Friday 1st August

There was a storm in the night. It was a chilly morning and the sand cranes
were still calling.

By mid morning the wind had increased and the chill had changed to cold. The wind increased further and the river chopped up to an uncomfortable stage. We stopped for lunch near a creek just after Askew Island and sat on a low lying bed of dried rocks. It was exposed and chilly but there was no better place to stop.

Further along on the right side of the river we came across a family with their dog resting on shore and getting away from the high wind. They too were canoeists and were from Norman Wells and on their way to Inuvik. We knew they were on the river somewhere as Cheryl whom was a great help to us at the council offices of Normal Wells, had said that her good friends Michelle, Wes and their three children and dog were paddling to Inuvik.

Michelle was chatty but Wes avoided talking. He was either shy or he just didn’t like people invading his privacy. Their little girl was playing with toys. The other two children were First Nation and the eldest boy who looked about 13 was paddling a collapsible kayak by himself. The little one just had on a T shirt and no shoes and we shivered just looking at her, they must build these North West Territories people to be hardy.

We left them and slogged on against the strong wind and rough water. We later found a good campsite at a place called the Grand View, and it truly was.

There were very large, very fresh bear tracks imbedded in the mud and those prints went right down to the rivers edge!!

We settled in, and for appetisers we had wine, oysters, dip and crackers and sat looking across the river taking in all its beauty. Just as we finished I saw a black object floating quite quickly across the river. First thoughts were that it was a log but it was moving too fast. With the aid of binoculars I noticed it was a bear out for a big swim. It swam right across the very wide river and when it was within thirty metres from the opposite side it just drifted. We watched for over 20 minutes. Eventually it climbed up the shoreline and fled into the forest.

In the meantime a barge motored upstream towards us. There were two Moose or Caribou on the other side of the river but when the barge passed they were gone.
About 8.30pm the family casually paddled towards us. Shouted hello and continued on their way. The young boy was paddling by himself, Michelle had her daughter with her and she was chatting away and playing with her toys. Wes had the younger son with him. They were only a spot in the distance after 30 minutes.

Thursday 31st July

There was mist on the river at 6.15am and it hung around for an hour. It was beautiful. The sky was near cloudless, surely a sign of a good day? By 9.10am we were heading over to the Rampart Cliffs. They looked spectacular from a distance.

We paddled across towards the gap in the cliffs and within 2kms of them rocky islands and shallows rock bars and ledges were creating rapids. By manoeuvring mainly towards the right we managed to skirt them.

We were soon in the narrow gorge with cliff walls staring vertically each side of us. The left cliffs were illuminated by the morning sun. They were spectacular. An eagle glided above the cliffs.

We took photos for the next hour until the gorge widened and we were no longer hemmed in by the stunning vertical barrier. Then, before us on a hill in the distance we could see the white church of Fort of Good Hope. It wasn’t long before we pulled up at the muddy boat ramp, got changed and walked into town to do some shopping.

With the long summer holidays for students still running, several of them were in the store or mingling outside. In a small village like this there wasn’t a lot for them to do, however satellite television did manage to keep them in touch with fashion and habits and styles of the youth in big cities.

We had lunch on a bench near the church which we were told had beautiful paintings inside and a must to see. Unfortunately it was locked and the priest wasn’t around so we missed out.

A First Nation man generously gave Tony a fresh fish. We left the village heading towards the Arctic Circle in brilliant sunshine and with the river shimmering and shining. We were ready and waiting to cross the circle. It was my second time to canoe across the Arctic Circle so it was a little bit special.

There was a fish camp (locals cabins and tents) at the mouth of the Loon River which came out just below the Arctic Circle. An island nearby had one of the best sand bars that we had seen on the trip. It got 10 out of 10 on the score card but we didn’t stop to camp on it. Some time later, above the Arctic Circle we found another sand bar, where we camped and I made a fire and cooked the fish. It was yummy.

A few Sand Cranes were on the sand bar and came within a hundred metres of us. Their call was amazing. We could hear them all night on the sandbar and flying overhead. We were told that we would hear them but be lucky to see them……..we were lucky.

The wind started to blow at 11.00pm and rain started to develop.

Wednesday 30th July

The morning was a little hazy but otherwise it was the beginning of a beautiful day. The scenery around us was grand, and not dissimilar to parts of the Kimberley, though it lacked the rich ochre colour of the Kimberley. The Bat Hills were over to our right and other hills in the distance on the left, the views were simply stunning.

At the end of Dummit Island, just after two channels converged there were some manageable rapids over to the right side of the river. Tony and Leonie headed across into them to have some fun. We could hear Leonie shouting with excitement.

A few kilometres further, just beyond Hardie Island, Alaine noticed a golden cloud heading our way and just beside it , the start of some ominous looking clouds. It was quite unbelievable as it was a calm, beautiful day yet a sandstorm was whipping up and ominous clouds were forming rapidly. Within minutes the full force of a storm had hit us. The river had turned into one mass of breaking waves and the wind was virtually wrenching our paddles from our grasp. We had to make our way to shore to be safe.

Alaine jumped out knee high, right into thick, gluggy mud and boy, was she was far from cheerful!! We moved on keeping close to shore after everyone had put on more clothes. Alaine wasn’t happy that we were paddling on into the wind though we were in the shelter of the shore and out of the even stronger winds out where we would normally be paddling.

Paddling was quite tough and although Alaine’s wrist was hurting, she was paddling extremely hard, Tony and Leonie couldn’t keep up.

In the meantime the sand was still being blown around as though it was a storm in a dessert, and the river was filled with whitecaps and huge ocean type waves.

After lunch the wind calmed a little so the river was less suicidal and we managed to make some headway. I spotted a bear from afar and when we neared, it came out of the bushes looked at us and ran into the forest.

We struggled on to an island a few kilometres from the stunning Ramparts
Cliffs. We arrived just as a storm started to batter the island and as we were erecting our tents. A bigger storm was lashing the Rampart gorge.

Tuesday 29th July

The sand cranes were still calling in the morning, it was a lovely sound to waken up to. By noon we had reached the Cargajou Ridge and the steep rock cliffs. They were amazing. We floated with our legs up and basking in the hot sun.

We had lunch with the steep cliffs as a backdrop, they were stunning. Further along the cliffs dropped straight into the water. The different textured rock face and formations were incredible. We drifted and took photos and tried to capture the amazing beauty around us and burn it into our memories.

I spotted a bear from several hundred metres and paddled towards it. We were quiet so it didn’t realise we were there. The bear walked slowly along the shoreline. We watched it for some time before it spotted us. It walked closer towards us, looked at us before rearing up onto two legs and grunted. The bear then turned and pushed through the undergrowth and out of sight. It returned to shore as we paddled further along. Soon after we drifted past the bear we caught sight of a large beaver sunning itself on a rock.

What a day it was turning out to be!!

Further along next to Axel Island, a police runabout stopped. The three policemen from Norman Wells were checking out the rapids downstream. Apparently they come down every so often to check out the power boats along the way and make sure no one was in trouble along the river.

Monday 28th July

We walked into town to do last minute shopping. We heard some news of a small boat having been capsized near Tuktoyatuk (where we were headed to) by a big wave and sadly four people had drowned, only a teenage boy survived.

We had brunch at a diner before leaving. I had an Oilman’s omelet. Like all the meals we had in Norman Wells, the quality was excellent.

We were packed and ready to leave by 12.45pm. There were several man made islands with oil wells working away and an oil rig which at that time was out of action and losing thousands of dollars every day. Norman Wells and surrounds had been quite an education.

The day was cloudy and hazy so it ruined our view of the Mackenzie Ranges. By late afternoon the haze had gone and we got good views of the Norman Range.

We camped next to a stream and had steak, potatoes and corn cooked over the campfire. The beautiful sound of the sand cranes were with us all night. Yet another magnificent midnight sunset.

Had 48km to get to Norman Wells. The river was calm and temperature hot. A smoke haze was still hanging around.

We arrived at the oil and gas mining town at 2.30pm and of course, being Sunday, only the supermarket was open. Checked out museum. It had so much stuff in it, it was amazing for a small town. Out from our camp was one oil rig and several man made islands with oil pumps. There are no roads into Norman Wells, until they make winter roads when everything freezes over.

We had our evening meal at the Mackenzie Hotel. I was surprised at the quality. We all had great meals and of course a couple of beers, blueberry tart and ice cream. I also had some of my leftover fish which was as delicious as the night before.

Saturday 26th July

32kms paddle to Fort Norman. A bigger community than we expected. It was Saturday, so only the store was open. It had a great little log church. Floor buckled, but still looked as if it was used. Treated ourselves to ice cream and a drink.

We topped up our water supplies from the Great Bear River. Thewater comes straight out of the Great Bear Lake, one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world. Pure, cold, fresh water! You can't get any better than that.

A few kms further we stopped at a spot where the smoke was coming out of the ground due to burning coals. We walked close, but the fumes were overpowering. The stench of the fumes gave out a pungent odour.

It was a beautiful afternoon. We found a great camping spot and I managed to become the hunter again. I caught a huge fish the locals call a Coney. It was so big it was hard to lift. Too much for a meal for four so we had left-overs the next day.

Another great sunset.

Friday 25th July

Cool Morning, cloudy, with sunny patches. The current was swift. We were paddling between 11 - 16kms in an hour. Calm conditions, small mountain ranges a distance off and landslides of the shoreline made the day special.

Found a great campsite on a Seagull Island. Again, no mosquitoes. Since starting the Mackenzie leg of the journey, all but 2 campsites have been free of mosquitoes.

Thursday 24th July

Windy again!! Tried my hand at fishing the Backwater River. although it was clear, Tony and I had no luck. Decided to change roles and be the gatherer rather than the hunter. The water was near black.

We met the police boat returning from Fort Simpson. The current was fast. We were paddling at 10 - 14kms per hour. Loved it!!

Camped at Redstone River, but the water was too milky to catch fish.

Wednesday 23rd July

It was still quite story and it began to rain, although not for too long. It was also cold at times.
We left the mountain ranges behind and had a hard paddle along a straight part of the river.

We had another good camp next to a stream.

Tuesday 22nd July

We met another barge fighting it's way up-stream against the currents. A police boat going downstream to to Norman Wells stopped to check us out. Other than that we only see the odd powerboat.

The river has now turned milky, due to some of the rivers carrying glaciers silt from the mountains. Fishing has deteriorated, the fish can't seem to see my lure. I tried fishing at a clear spot between the Mountains River, but I still had no luck.

Water current was good. The day was hot and calm. Arrived at the village of Wrigley late afteroon. We met 10 students and 2 leaders on a 44 day trip from Fort Providence. They were beaming and excited amd loved the river and experiences so far. It was great to see young people so excited and positive. They are going to learn so much about the country and themselves. They were on a YMCA trip from Calgary.

We moved on and camped on a rock island. It was perfect until a storm came through and the sand patches were whipped up by the wind.

Monday 21st July

It was such a perfect sunny day and the views of the Nahani ranges were stunning. We paddled on in calm conditions, sometimes just floating, looking at the magnificant scenery. We were spellbound.

We had lunch sitting on a log in the hot sun, being mesmerised by the stunning scenery that lay before us. I think we would be hard pressed to find another a magical lunch spot along the river.

When the day was over we found a perfect campspot on a sandbar island, overlooking the ranges that we had passed during the day. Two barges went by.


Sunday 20th July

It was sunny, but windy which made paddling a little more tiring. The current was still good so we still made good time.

We stopped at the Wrigley/Mackenzie River ferry crossing. Dave and Danny invited us for coffee and biscuits and a ride across the river on the ferry. They were great guys, told us a lot about themselves and the ferry. The ride was extremely interesting and enjoyable.

Camped overlooking the very scenic Nahani Mountain Range. Beautiful night. A porcupine strolled around our camp.

Saturday 19th July

Now in Fort Simpson after an easy paddle of 30kms, with good current. Unfortunately, no Internet access on a weekend. Can't call home because everyone is in bed! Midday here, 2.00am in Perth.

Our next community, Wrigley, is small, so it will be a week before we hit another store.

Weather today is again HOT!

The river Nahani joins the Mackenzie, so the water will become less clean and the river will widen.

Friday 18th July

Warm and calm today. Within 10kms the river had narrowed and the current had increased and we were doing 10 - 14kms per hour. It was just amazing watching the trees fly by.

Called in Jean Marie to have a look around and meet some of the locals. We laid back and rested in the sun a few times, just letting the current take us.

Met a couple in a power boat at Rabbit River. They allowed us to camp on a hill next to some cabins that their family own. Great Spot! Fantastic sunset again and good talk with the locals.

What a day! We covered about 80kms, fairly easy paddling! :)

Thursday 17th July

The river was calm for half hour before the wind picked up. It turned out being quite a hard day making about 58kms.

Found an amazing sandy beach for this area. Like being at Ningaloo.

Wednesday 16th July

Crossed Mills Lake. For the first 2 hours it was like a mill pond before chopping up again. Had a snack at a rocky spot. Caught another fish. With my fishing licence costing US$40, I need to get my moneys worth!

Entered the river again, no more lakes, and found another decent campsite. Caught another fish. Hot and calm.
Tuesday 15th July

With less than 3 hours sleep, it was going to be a rough day, but a least the current had increased again. We had about 16km to get to Fort Providence where we stopped for two and a half hours. A friendly dog followed me for two hours and was sitting at the rivers edge when we left.

We paddled another 20kms before stopping on an island just before Mills Lake. And I proved my worth after catching a fish each and donating to the girls to cook. It was a good campsite!
Monday 14th July

Left the Great Slave Lake and entered the Mackenzie River. We were now on our final leg, 1800kms of it.

Our spirits were lifted by an increase in current. It felt good after having no help from the current. With another few kms we would be entering Beaver Lake. Another barrier in our way. We paddled for 25kms and stopping on another island before the big expanse of water.

The idea was was to camp early, try to get some sleep and then cross the lake at night when the wind dropped. By 8.30pm it was calm enough to do the big crossing. The lake opened onto a mill pond and was absolutely beautiful. We were headed toward the setting sun which occured about 11.30pm. The moon came up and the clouds and dying sun made the crossing magnificent. Certainly a highlight!!

We crossed the lake and arrived where the river narrowed at 3.30am. Although it was dark, we could still see. We crashed for few hours, and were up at 6.30am to face another day.

July 2008

Update for Sunday 13th July

Wind was still blowing when we left. It was cold and Alaine, who was in the front was becoming wet from the splash of the waves. It was hard work and our speed was down to 3 - 4 knots an hour.

Finally reached some water where 150 pelicans were floating and bobbing around. We found a camping spot on Island next to an old house. Lots of insects, but was okay after 7 hours of paddling. The girls had blisters and were a little sore. They paddled well.

Update for Sat 12th July

We finally left Hay River on calm conditions, although the forecast was supposed to be 20 knot winds. It was great to be in the water again and have the girls with us. The conversation might be a little better.

After a while we saw a canoeist chasing us. He was a local who wanted to know who we were.

We had calm conditions for about 3 hours. The lake was magnificent and the girls didn't know what all the fuss was about.

Then the wind suddenly picked up and we were headed into quite a rough time. The girls remained quiet. We managed about 23kms till we stopped and called it a day. We had paddled for about five and a half hours!!

Windy Weather

Friday 11th July

Unfortunately when we rechecked the weather this morning, there was a wind warning. So we will not travel today as the Lake is no place to be in windy conditions....this, Tony and I know from experience!!

Leonie's bag has finally arrived and she is now a much happier camper.

Whilst in Hay River, I've had the opportunity to update the Blog and there are many new details that I've added. You may want to revisit previous postings.